Basics winter sewing - black wool crepe dress

I am constantly divided between all those great colorful and original dresses I see on the blogosphere which motivate me to create some as well and the fact that I primarily sew working clothes. With limited time dedicated to sewing, and almost zero possibility to find appropriate clothes (read clothes I do not have to adjust to my size and I like the colour and cut), the choice is quickly made.

So here we go with a next “basics”. Put in some black wool crepe from Laurent Garigue, a proven pattern (Butterick 6016), add a pair of sleeves and I do not ask for much more.

Not so many adjustments needed, just plain and quick sewing. The dress is lined with a rest of the flower silk, which I also used for the hem. Again, the wool crepe is forgiving but needs to be handled carefully to prevent fraying.

The black was really difficult to photograph, moreover with a new flash my photograph got last week. So the preparations took some time and … I got bored.

OK, enough talking, here is the finished dress:

Inspiration: …

Pattern: Butterick 6016 with sleeves

Pattern changes: sleeves

Technique: nothing special

Fabric: black wool crepe

Time to Complete: 2 weeks

Total Cost: 31 EUR

Blue Guest Dress II.

I did not have much time ahead and most of all wanted to avoid another flop. So let’s go with the known.

I bought 3m of dark blue silk muslin which was slightly transparent, so it was pretty clear a double layer would be necessary and decided to re-use the Butterick 6016. I have successfully tested it and thought that with the appropriate accessories, this would work.

Since I would need little bit of fabric for a purse, I cut out the skirt in double, the bodice lining is in black cotton-silk sateen. It also helps to maintain the form more than the muslin itself.

 The sewing went quite smoothly, I did not use any interfacing fearing it would be visible on the inside. I only used organza strips to maintain the fabric around the zip and a bias strip to maintain the waist.

The skirt is baby-hemmed… 

actually no, the baby hemming is not completed: when testing it I realized it made the hem rather stiff, so I only folded the fabric once. Fortunately, the muslin almost does not fray, so this should work without problems. 

 

The dress will be accessorized with a red bow belt (and red shoes).

Et voilà, my first silk dress completed.

And in action! Unfortunately, it was quite cold that day, so I was wearing a black jacket over it.

Inspiration: matching my new hat

Pattern: Butterick 6016

Pattern changes: the same as on the wearable muslin

Fabric: dark blue silk muslin

Notions: probably none :o)

Time to Complete: 1 week

Total Cost: 49 EUR

First Worn: my cousin's marriage

Brown Flower Dress – Wearable Muslin

I bought this fabric during my first fabric shopping spree. I found a coupon just calling my name – it has all I love: brown, red, green, small flowers and the viscose is just sooo soft and fine. When cutting the fabric I started to think it is probably too fine for a summer dress, and would be more suitable for a top but I had 3 meters of it (115cm width) so the top is still realizable. 

For the first time, I endeavored to buy a pattern different from Burda. I took advantage of a sales period at Butterick and ordered three patterns (by mail… am I getting old?), two of them from the retro collection.

I consider this dress a wearable muslin for another fancy dress to come in the next month. Since I have totally no experience with Butterick, I made a quick bodice muslin for my wearable muslin… can you say that? The sizes also got me puzzled. For the first time I do not cut the smallest one. According to the body measurements I would be a 10-12 on the breasts, 12 in the waist and 8 on the hips, so I cut out the 10 to see. Strangely, even the 10 was somehow large on the bodice. I took in 2cm on the front, 1cm on the back and shortened the shoulder area (as always). 

All in all I was rather surprised how well it fitted, so for the moment: worth the price.

I decided to self-line the dress bodice and contrary to the instructions, put in a vliseline on the shoulder-arm area. The sewing was a real pleasure and went on very quickly. I admit doing some of the adjustments on the half finished dress (not the best idea, I know). The invisible zip is on the side, and got in without any problems. Moreover, the fabric was very easy to iron and did not puff anywhere. 

The pattern asks for back pleats on the whole length of the skirt but it was pretty much clear this would not work on my fabric. I pleated the skirt on the top and that is it.

I already wore it on the first beautifully sunny day this year - here is the result of an hour lunch outside.

The skirt is almost semi-circle, so baby hemming was the only option.

There is also a small bow above the pleats…

 In the end, I was really excited how quick this project was, it was ready in a week-end, during which I have done so many other things. I am giving many positive points to Butterick for the fit (saved a lot of time) and for the simple, though little retro cut, a few negative on the included seam allowance and the super-fine silk paper on which the pattern is drawn. I was very afraid I would damage the pattern just by extending it on the floor. I closed the cat in the kitchen and hurried to copy it to my usual silk pattern paper which is much more cat-resistant.

Inspiration: loving the fabric

Pattern: Butterick 6016

Pattern changes: 2cm on the front bodice, 1cm on the back bodice, 1.5cm on the shoulders, the length of the skirt, no seams on the back bodice (a mistake, but why not)

Fabric: brown flower print viscose

Notions: probably none :o)

Time to Complete: 2 days

Total Cost: 25 EUR

First Worn: first really hot day in June 2014