Friday, 6 June 2014

Brown Flower Dress – Wearable Muslin

I bought this fabric during my first fabric shopping spree. I found a coupon just calling my name – it has all I love: brown, red, green, small flowers and the viscose is just sooo soft and fine. When cutting the fabric I started to think it is probably too fine for a summer dress, and would be more suitable for a top but I had 3 meters of it (115cm width) so the top is still realizable. 
For the first time, I endeavored to buy a pattern different from Burda. I took advantage of a sales period at Butterick and ordered three patterns (by mail… am I getting old?), two of them from the retro collection.
I consider this dress a wearable muslin for another fancy dress to come in the next month. Since I have totally no experience with Butterick, I made a quick bodice muslin for my wearable muslin… can you say that? The sizes also got me puzzled. For the first time I do not cut the smallest one. According to the body measurements I would be a 10-12 on the breasts, 12 in the waist and 8 on the hips, so I cut out the 10 to see. Strangely, even the 10 was somehow large on the bodice. I took in 2cm on the front, 1cm on the back and shortened the shoulder area (as always). 
All in all I was rather surprised how well it fitted, so for the moment: worth the price.

I decided to self-line the dress bodice and contrary to the instructions, put in a vliseline on the shoulder-arm area. The sewing was a real pleasure and went on very quickly. I admit doing some of the adjustments on the half finished dress (not the best idea, I know). The invisible zip is on the side, and got in without any problems. Moreover, the fabric was very easy to iron and did not puff anywhere. 

The pattern asks for back pleats on the whole length of the skirt but it was pretty much clear this would not work on my fabric. I pleated the skirt on the top and that is it.
I already wore it on the first beautifully sunny day this year - here is the result of an hour lunch outside.
The skirt is almost semi-circle, so baby hemming was the only option.
There is also a small bow above the pleats…
 In the end, I was really excited how quick this project was, it was ready in a week-end, during which I have done so many other things. I am giving many positive points to Butterick for the fit (saved a lot of time) and for the simple, though little retro cut, a few negative on the included seam allowance and the super-fine silk paper on which the pattern is drawn. I was very afraid I would damage the pattern just by extending it on the floor. I closed the cat in the kitchen and hurried to copy it to my usual silk pattern paper which is much more cat-resistant.

Inspiration: loving the fabric
Pattern: Butterick 6016
Pattern changes: 2cm on the front bodice, 1cm on the back bodice, 1.5cm on the shoulders, the length of the skirt, no seams on the back bodice (a mistake, but why not)
Fabric: brown flower print viscose
Notions: probably none :o)
Time to Complete: 2 days
Total Cost: 25 EUR
First Worn: first really hot day in June 2014

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