Saturday, 12 July 2014

Red-Flower Silk Dress

I came across this fabric by chance when I was looking for a colourful silk to wear with my new hat. I took it just because I liked the colour and the pattern thinking I would just make a nice silk top. Later on, at home, the decision changed and I coupled it with the retro Butterick 6018.
I bought 3m of the fabric, but with the width of only 115cm and 2 white lines across the fabric, cutting suddenly required a university degree.
Originally, I thought I would self line the dress and maybe… had a little sorbetto as well. In the end, I was happy I cut out the dress, dot. Fortunately, I have made a muslin and shortened the dress by at least 15cm which saved me precious centimeters of the fabric. I knew I would not be able to match the flowers, but wanted to make sure I matched the yellow parts of the fabric and that these parts flow in the same direction on the dress.

As usual, a few adjustments were needed: I shortened the bodice, deepened the armcycles, matched the bodice to the skirt (the dress sketch shows no seam in the front skirt, but the pattern has it and I wanted to stick to the sketch. In the end, I took in a few cm on the waist and a few inches on the skirt length.

The bodice lining is in black silk-cotton completely fixed to the fashion fabric by hand. 

When sewing the bodice, I mismatched the right and left side and therefore left the right part open for the zip, bizarrely, I made the same mistake on the lining. That’s why the zip is on the right side instead of the left one.

The neckline was far from being easy: first of all its form is quite unusual, so keeping to it was necessary, I did not put any interfacing and the black lining was somehow coming out. I ended up topstitching the whole neckline to make sure the fabric stays in place.

The cover buttons are just a nice final touch and were soo easy to make. 

What I really love about this dress is the perfect fit. The dress is adjusted but easy to move in, despite the sleeves and everything. It is a true retro, with its rounded neckline, the buttons and the large skirt. I am really surprised how well this fits me, and just want to put on a small hat and gloves :o)
And then the fabric has a great drape, is so fine, and has this shiny part.


Inspiration: I wanted a retro dress
Pattern: Butterick 6018
Pattern changes: 3cm on the bodice length, 15cm on the skirt, no front skirt seam, deeper armcycles
Fabric: red flower silk
Notions: cover buttons
Time to Complete: 1 week
Total Cost: 39 EUR
First Worn: photo shoots

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