Sunday, 22 April 2018

Africa Jersey

Now that I can sew jerseys, ha ha (and I know I can sew thick ones, but definitely will need some more training on the thin ones), I whipped up another sweat-shirt.

Actually, the red one was considered really a training/test model so I can sew a nice sweatshirt from this very cute fabric.

If you look closely, there are flowers, tigers, hearts and I-do-not-know-what-else - everybody seems to pick up on something else. However, the fabric is busy and cute and that's what counts.

I used another Burda pattern - 6046 because of the hoodie. I quickly checked the paper pattern against similar garments I own and then went for it. I only had a meter of this fabric and it was almost not enough. I did not line the hoodie, for one becase I did not have enough fabric, but also because the double layer would make it too thick and sturdy. The fabric is grey and very soft on the inside and I think it works like that as well.

I added the pockets, though, because I could not imagine a sweat without them, even though it is only to my hands in.

This was a very quick make, even too quick. I think I have cut out everything on one evening and sewed it up on the second one. I do not want to say it was almost a disappointment, but I actually like taking time with sewing and here I had a very nice piece ready in no time.

Oh well, canot have always everything. The weather has finally realized we are in April and the temperatures went up, so I am high on summer-dresses-sewing fever.

Monday, 16 April 2018

Vintage or too Amish?

I must say, I cannot make my mind on what I think of this dress. It is actually a Burda reproduction of its own vintage pattern (Burda 102-05/2010) and I must have bought it almost three years ago.

Actually I saw it on a different blog, liked the 60s style and did not hesitate much. Then it sit in my stash (worst thing, I have even printed it out, so I had a pack of office paper in my stash actually).
Then two years ago, I bough a simple shirting cotton, specially for this project.

This year, in some strange mid-period sewing crisis I decided it was high time I sewed it. Funny thing, I did not make any muslin, just did the standard adjustments I do on Burda patterns and it actually worked pretty well, ufff.

What I actually like on this dress are the few technical points:
- pintucks - how many times a year do you have the opportunity to sew pintucks?
- covered buttons - a LOT of them
- loops - see both points above
- right-angled yokes
And also, it is a really cute vintage dress. So, I just fell into that hole and made the dress.

The result is pretty good on the technical point of view. I am really happy with the regularity of my pintucks, I redid the yoke insertion twice, but in the end, it is perfect. The fabric creases a lot, but I managed to iron it properly. The fit is spot on. The buttons and loops a such a cute detail! The invisible zip on the side is really invisible and looks very neat even on the inside.

The fabric helped a lot, it was easy to iron and did not fray at all. I used French seams almost everywhere, and false French seam on the rest, so it is very clean on the inside.

So what is actually bothering me on this dress: well, my BF called it the "nun's dress" :o) and it is very vintag-y. It will get worn over some week-ends, hopefully, but it will definitely not become my every-day dress.

On the other hand, sewing cannot always be a practical hobby and this dress is a great example of a piece I had real fun sewing even if it is not the biggest wearing success.

Monday, 2 April 2018

2018 Resolutions

I have had this post in my drafts since the beginning of January, but forgot to post. Ii is always fun to read them once the ear is over, so here it is - better late than never.

So my sewing resolutions for 2018 are as follows:
  • Decrease my stash by 15% (16m) while still buying new fabrics - totally doable, as I managed this 2 years in a row already. The final aim is to get to some constant 70m of fabric (at this speed I will get there in 2-3 years) where I will be able to buy fabrics for new projects and not to shop in my stash all the time.
  • Sew more jackets - one is already done (not yet published) and another one planned. I am also dreaming of a Chanel-styled one, either in a blazer version, or the real one. At the end of the year I might also sew a new coat, finally.
  • Update this blog - I started it 4 years ago and took a simple layout. I think it seriously needs a visual update now.
  • Sew bottoms - shorts, trousers - I would need to do some serious fitting effort here, but since GAP just changed the cut of their khaki shorts, it might be worth having a good pattern rather than trying to fin new ones in the shops (and since my next vacation will be all safari and sand, I should start working on this one) PS: I already muslined one pattern, without much success, but I am determined to make it work.
  • Try sewing knits - I do not need to sew my activewear or t-shirts but I would like to try a dress in some heavier and stable knits, I have seen a few patterns lately which I really liked so maybe it is time I tried
And this is where my today's make fit perfectly :o) A few weeks ago I have bought two heavy jerseys determined to learn sewing with them. They are stretch, but quite stable so a good starting version.

My first jersey make is this Burda sweat-shirt - 111-02/2017. I liked the pattern since I bought the magazine so was rather determined to make it work. I appreciate the unusual cut and the pockets are very original.

It also forced me to discover the stretch programs of my sewing machine, especially the "overlock" one and it worked really magic. I interfaced the pocket openings, but apart from that, no further issue. I had done a muslin (fortunately) and shaved off at least 10cm from the width of the sweat.

All the hems were only turned inside and stitched which made the sweat a very quick make.

The sweat is extremely soft on the inside so very comfy to wear, so quite a nice first try on the jerseys.