Friday, 25 July 2014

Some Practical Sewing: Black Wool Skirt

As mentioned on my Me-Made-May article, I am missing some basics, so I wanted to remedy this gap.
 A two-evening black skirt.

Black wool, Burda 120-02/2014 and two evenings and my black skirt was done. (I could have finished on the first evening but was quite tired from the preceding week-end). As I already knew the pattern, sewing it was quick and smooth. No adjusting needed. 

I even insterted lace border, for the pleasure of having it.

Inspiration: none
Pattern: Burda 120-02/2014
Pattern changes: none
Fabric: black wool + black rayon as lining
Notions: none
Time to Complete: 2 days
Total Cost: 13 EUR
First Worn: July 2014

Vacation Sewing Progress: Black Top

I had a rest of cotton-silk black muslin crying at me from my stash. I had used it as a dress lining but with mitigated results, it is very smooth against the skin, but does not have a great drape. However, I thought I would use the muslin for a summer top. In order to get rid of the transparency, I double-layered the fabric and must admit that the silk gives it a very nice glance.

I used a Simplicity 51-02/2014 which was quite simple and quick to sew. No big adjustments, the neckline is gathered together with an elastic band and covered by the fabric. I used French seams everywhere, as even on the double layer, it does not bulk.

Strangely, I considered this fabric slippery when sewing the simple layer as a lining, doubled it was obeying like a simple cotton.

The top was ready in one afternoon, so I could wear it the other day. And it feels so nice on. In the meantime, I managed to buy some more of this fabric, in dark blue and dark brown.

Inspiration: use the remaining fabric
Pattern: Simplicity 51-02/2014
Pattern changes: sleeves are not gathered, top narrowed by 3 cm
Fabric: black cotton-silk
Notions: gathering
Time to Complete: 1 afternoon
Total Cost: 11 EUR

First Worn: June 2014

Saturday, 12 July 2014

Grey Linen Shorts

The objectives were clearly set, so I whipped up a linen shorts in about 2 days. I cut it out during the week-end when my BF was having his afternoon nap, sewed up really quickly during Sunday evening, ordered the buttons on Monday, received them on Tuesday and finished the buttonholes the same day. 
This was the first time working with linen and I must say I will buy some more soon as it was a real pleasure to work with. Ironing went smoothly, sewing went smoothly, it was just fraying a lot. I was also afraid that the seams would not be pleasant on the skin so I decided to treat them with bias. You can also see my new etiquettes: 

I reused the Ruby shorts from Burda which I had already tried and adjusted, so no further fitting issues, yeah! :o) This time, I omitted the front welted pocket but made 2 pouch pockets with buttons on the back. Also, I put the buttons only on the right side, because even on my Vichy short I never open the right side. 

I really enjoyed topstitching the waistband and the hem and feel very satisfied with the result. Perhaps it is not such a bad idea to see the stitches on the outside from time to time. 

My aim was to create a pair of very neutral shorts to be able to wear it with all the colored tops.

I really like the idea of making the muslin, adjusting the pattern to my body (which in the end distinguishes my creations from the RTW), but when a project takes time, either because I do not always have a lot of time for sewing or because Iose motivation to finish it, it might become frustrating.
A quick project with a known pattern helps me to remotivate for a more complicated things to come.

Inspiration: previous success with the Ruby Burda pattern
Pattern: Ruby
Pattern changes: changes in the pockets, added 2 buttons
Fabric: grey linen
Notions: buttonholes/buttons
Time to Complete: 2 days
Total Cost: 21 EUR
First Worn: not yet

Red-Flower Silk Dress

I came across this fabric by chance when I was looking for a colourful silk to wear with my new hat. I took it just because I liked the colour and the pattern thinking I would just make a nice silk top. Later on, at home, the decision changed and I coupled it with the retro Butterick 6018.
I bought 3m of the fabric, but with the width of only 115cm and 2 white lines across the fabric, cutting suddenly required a university degree.
Originally, I thought I would self line the dress and maybe… had a little sorbetto as well. In the end, I was happy I cut out the dress, dot. Fortunately, I have made a muslin and shortened the dress by at least 15cm which saved me precious centimeters of the fabric. I knew I would not be able to match the flowers, but wanted to make sure I matched the yellow parts of the fabric and that these parts flow in the same direction on the dress.

As usual, a few adjustments were needed: I shortened the bodice, deepened the armcycles, matched the bodice to the skirt (the dress sketch shows no seam in the front skirt, but the pattern has it and I wanted to stick to the sketch. In the end, I took in a few cm on the waist and a few inches on the skirt length.

The bodice lining is in black silk-cotton completely fixed to the fashion fabric by hand. 

When sewing the bodice, I mismatched the right and left side and therefore left the right part open for the zip, bizarrely, I made the same mistake on the lining. That’s why the zip is on the right side instead of the left one.

The neckline was far from being easy: first of all its form is quite unusual, so keeping to it was necessary, I did not put any interfacing and the black lining was somehow coming out. I ended up topstitching the whole neckline to make sure the fabric stays in place.

The cover buttons are just a nice final touch and were soo easy to make. 

What I really love about this dress is the perfect fit. The dress is adjusted but easy to move in, despite the sleeves and everything. It is a true retro, with its rounded neckline, the buttons and the large skirt. I am really surprised how well this fits me, and just want to put on a small hat and gloves :o)
And then the fabric has a great drape, is so fine, and has this shiny part.


Inspiration: I wanted a retro dress
Pattern: Butterick 6018
Pattern changes: 3cm on the bodice length, 15cm on the skirt, no front skirt seam, deeper armcycles
Fabric: red flower silk
Notions: cover buttons
Time to Complete: 1 week
Total Cost: 39 EUR
First Worn: photo shoots

Monday, 7 July 2014

Summer plans

I am leaving on vacation in exactly one month and am realizing I still have too many summer sewing plans to do. Please note I will not spend my vacation at home and will be far away from any sewing machine.

On my four-weeks agenda I have:
1. Finish my Butterick 6018

2. Another pair of shorts from grey linen

3. Sew a few tops

4. Black-orange dress I am planning since.. April, probably (I have the fabric and the pattern reserved for this in my stock)

5. English embroidery white dress… it would just be a dream if I found the time to do it.. I fished out the fabric during the sales in my fabric market in a battle. Not only the initial price was quiet low, but it was 50% off. Then I went to the shops and found out English embroidery is actually in this year.