Black Period

In many senses:

January has been just a one crazy month and I still feel some impact of it now. But, I managed to sew little bit in December (not blogged) and finished things in February (not blogged either).

I am also very late on posting about one of my November makes. But I am speeding things up, took a few pictures this morning, so hopefully will be posting everything soon.

Then, all of my last makes are completely black or with majority of black. Oh well. That is probably because not having too much time for sewing, I focus on making practical things which I am sure to wear, aka dark colours. I would like to promise that it will get better soon but even the blouse I am making this week-end is black-and-beige.

So let’s review this black dress. It is the same 60’s pattern as this dress which got sooooo much wear this winter even though it is an illogical combination of wool flannel and short sleeves, but I figured it goes well with sweaters, as well as jackets and I just love it. Unfortunately, it shrank little bit in the process, because I wash my wool clothes in the machine (and yes, I did preshrank it before sewing).

It was quite obvious that I needed another one like that before the winter is over, this time with longer sleeves. Small details include invisible zip, inserted pockets and that’s pretty much it.

The pattern is nice, the waist is not very fitted, so this is a perfect dress for your bloated-belly days :o)

The fabric is black wool flannel, lined with batik silk I bought last year in Indonesia to add little bit of fun to this dress. I actually had almost 2m of this crazy fabric and figured out that a whole dress in black-yellow would never get worn. So I used a part for the lining and the rest for a small summer top (yes, yes, still to be blogged).

Inspiration: 1960s

Pattern: Burda 110-09/2015

Pattern changes: none, pattern already adjusted on my previous model

Technique: hidden pockets

Fabric: black wool flannel, batik silk for lining

Time to Complete: a month

Total Cost: 24 EUR

60' Dress

Yes, it is true I already have a grey wool dress, yes, it is true I wear a lot of grey/brown/black in winter, but yes, it is true I really love this fabric.

It is some kind of thin wool flannel and it is so soft and such a pleasure to sew with. And I had bought a 3m coupon in the beginning which means that even after having sewn 2 dresses out of it, I still have some left for another one. The first one is here. 

More importantly: I bought September Burda and I think it is one rare great number. Not only did I sew this 60’ style dress, but I have an eye on two others.

So to the details: the dress is Burda 110-09/2015, the version with short sleeves and I have to admit, I got completely inspired by the magazine picture.

Note to myself: get better at ironing, the pictures were taken after several wears already.

As usual with Burda I had to adapt the shoulder area and took it in on the sides from the waist down. This time I am very proud of not only my invisible zipper, but also the invisible pockets. 

Yes, ye, there IS a pocket in this seam!!!

I like the minimalism of this dress which lets me accessorise it according to the circumstances. The dress is extremely confortable, be it for work or traveling. I just love the silhouette and the ease of movements.

I will not say that I will sew it again in another colour, but I think I just need some more 60’ inspired dresses. Thinking about some vintage ones, maybe…

I already talked about the fabric, warm enough for autumn/winter period; the dress is lined with black cotton-silk and so are the pockets. I know it is a risky one, but I just love the feeling of silk when I put my hands in the pockets :o)

Ok, a few pictures of the dress when worn, visiting the Chambord castle in Vallée de la Loire: it was an amazing autumn week-end with great weather and nice light, with all the autumn colours.

White Eyelet Dress

Another dress from my summer series.

I bought this eyelet cotton fabric last year and absolutely wanted a summer dress from it then. Unfortunately, what is not done before my vacation in August, will never be made. Thus, my dreamed eyelet dress got only sewn this June.

The big challenge was certainly the transparency of the fabric. By principle, I do not like transparent clothes, as you always have to be careful where you take them and I wanted my white dress to be wearable to the office, as well. In addition, the eyelets in my fabric are really big :o)

So I decided to underline it with a silk mousseline, which is not exactly white, but more ivory but feels great against the skin.

Also, I used the underlining as binding of all seams: basically I have sewn the underlinings to all the pattern pieces before assembling it. The advantage is that sewing the dress was then really quick and smooth.

The pattern is 126-05/2013 from Burda. Nothing complicated but I like the simplicity of the lines (the original model is also in white). Seeing the dress finished, the skirt might have been a little bit narrower, mostly in the back, but this is a casual summer dress in the end which got a lot of wear during our travel week-ends, so I will keep it like that.

The dress bodice and skirt features pleat instead of darts which is a nice change from what I usually sew and wear. What I also like with the pattern is the high-cut neckline which means I do not risk getting a sunburn when I forget to put on sunscreen.

On the other hand it is large enough and comfortable to survive a day in the car.

I finished the neckline, as well as the armscyes with bias binding made from silk underlining. No fuss with sleeves this time, yay!

Finally, a few pictures of the dress being worn: sorry for the shades on my face, the pics were taken at noon, actually not the best idea.

Inspiration: Burda

Pattern: Burda 126-05/2013

Pattern changes: bodice shortening

Technique: underlining

Fabric: white eyelet “Madeira” dress

Time to Complete: a week

Total Cost: 25 EUR

Black Top with Brown Eyes

Ok, actually these are no eyes, but a false leopard print, but I have difficulties accepting that I am wearing leopard :o)

It was a quick and very rewarding project. First, I think the fabric is gorgeous, it is a mix of silk and viscose, thus it is quite soft on the touch, but does not stretch as viscose itself, also it is slightly, but only slightly shiny, which makes the top a real top, not a simple t-shirt.

I combined the Burda pattern 125-02/2014 with a few ideas from a RTW blouse I own. Being wary of Burda, I muslined the pattern and, as usual, took in a few cm on the shoulders.

The sleeves are gathered with an elastic band, I totally improvised on this part, I do not know if it was a good idea, but the result looks pretty good.

I added a slitch and used bias binding on the upper hem, finished with a small button.

It all came up together quite quickly and smoothly, I must have finished it in one day or so.

When I bought the fabric, I knew I wanted a top, but have found myself searching desperately for a top pattern. It seems my pattern shopping is rather limited to dresses and ... well, dresses. Fortunately I have a few Burdas, hoping they would save me in cases like this.

Any ideas of an original (not too drapy) top with sleeves ?

Inspiration: Nice fabric

Pattern: Burda 125-02/2014

Pattern changes: many

Technique: biais binding

Fabric: leopard rayon-silk

Time to Complete: a week-end

Total Cost: 15 EUR