Sunday, 10 June 2018

Beware of Ruffles

Since two years ruffles are everywhere. Like everywhere. It started with the statement sleeves, cold shoulders and ended up with ruffles on everything.
I must admit that I am not always a big fan of ruffles. It adds volume on places where it is mostly not necessary (cleavage) or is totally impractical (sleeves) of reminds me of little girls' dresses (skirt).

Nevertheless, the quantity of patterns with ruffles is such that thanks to buying Burda, I also own a few patterns with ruffles. And to be honest, I kind of liked this Burda 106-02/2017 from the beginning. I even traced it out last summer (as a top) but never got to making it.

This year, during my early spring inspiration crisis, I ordered this green flowery viscose, which I basically put in the basket with another order, just to save up on shipping costs. That's why I only ordered a meter (the shop does not allow ordering half meters). When the fabric arrived, it had actually a border print on it, not mentioned in the e-shop, which limited the sewing options even more. But then, I reminded myself of this pattern which actually existed also as a dress and was presented with a border pattern in Burda.

My inspiration crisis is faaar away now and I am in full motion, sewing through my wishlist, so I thought I could just whip up this little number in just a few days.

And that's what almost happened :o) I did a muslin, because you never know, did my usual alterations on the bodice/shoulders and also adjusted the ruffle. Then, I cut out everything from the viscose and actually, I had just enough fabric (taking into account the border print), not a centimeter more. I pondered for a while if I should add pockets, but anyhow I did not have enough fabric for that and I think it would deform the viscose.

The dress is really ultra-simple to sew once you understand how the ruffle is fixed on the dress. Just before sewing the side seams I checked again on the fit and was rather puzzled by the ruffle.
First, I had not realize that the wrong side of the fabric would be so visible, oh well, and then, there was something wrong about the proportions. After some time of looking at it, as well as the pictures in the magazine, I realized that the ruffle is actually too wide and too long for me. The pattern piece is the same for all sizes, so if you use the smallest one like me and shorten it in addition, it is quite obvious that it will not work. I chopped away 2cm from the ruffle and shortened is as well; sewed again the side seams and finished everything with a biais, instead of facings.

In the end, I like the result: the proportions are much better now, the dress can be worn without any belt and the border print adds some more visual interest. More importantly, I love the colour of this fabric and the little flowers and the viscose is really soft and very comfortable to wear. It is rue I can still see the wrong part of the ruffle but I will just try to ignore it.

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